Chef Marcus Samuelsson’s new book is called The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food. "Dressing has always been part of an African identity, but also a sad journey in American history," Samuelsson says. "As Black men, we had to dress up. … If we didn’t look in a certain way … police officers [could] round us up — and it still happens." When COVID-19 forced New York City into lockdown in March, Harlem chef and restaurateur Marcus Samuelsson had a choice: stay or go. Born in Ethiopia and raised by adoptive parents in Sweden, Samuelsson says leaving the city during the pandemic "would be the easier way out." But he decided to stay. "My father was a tribe leader in Ethiopia. You don’t leave at the toughest time," he says. "You can’t come in and take all the benefits and then, when it comes to your turn to chip in, leave." The James Beard award-winning chef says his flagship restaurant, Red Rooster, became his "haven" during the height of pandemic. Working with José Andrés’ World Central Kitchen organization, Samuelsson converted the restaurant to a community kitchen. Over the course of six months, Red Rooster served more […]

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